Questions & Answers

If you have some questions this place is for you to get the answers.

If you see something interesting on Hungarian site and would like to know : “What’s that?” Than simple ask here.

64 Responses to “Questions & Answers”
  1. Colin_ukNo Gravatar says:

    Hi
    Has there been any testing of collectors that use sloping horizontal cans instead of the more usual vertical can format?
    My large (1.8m x 20m) fence mounted collector would be much cheaper to build if the cans were horizontal :)

  2. adminNo Gravatar says:

    There is a working horizontal beer can collector: http://web.t-online.hu/feltser1958/Soroslo/soroslo.html
    It works fine like vertical ones ;)

  3. Colin_ukNo Gravatar says:

    Szia Admin,
    Thanks for the link, its good to know there is a tried and tested horizontal collector, hopefully I won`t need the winch :)

    Its very difficult to find relevent posts even after figuring “Keresés” means “Search”
    The horizontal cans are ideal for saving on aluminium sheet, the dividers even for very long collectors are only needed at each end.
    I calculated each 17.3m row of cans in my planned collector will need 68m3/hr @ 100Pa.

    A grand total of 1836m3/hr and 2600 Pa .. i think i`ll need to use multiple fans :)

  4. GabsonNo Gravatar says:

    Hi everyone!

    I am Gabson as same as at Hungarian site. I am not an professional entrepreneur (cabinetmaker) but I will try to help you.

    Try to write your own post than put some information/picture. That is a better place to put you question there. Be cool answer will come soon!

    Gabson

  5. GabsonNo Gravatar says:

    Can someone tell me what is said about,solkote hi/absorb 11,on Hungarian site?

    Yes!

    This is the best liquid paint what you can get anyway:

    http://www.solec.org/solkotehome.htm

    Gabson

  6. GabsonNo Gravatar says:

    What kind of polycarbonate we use. And why?

    We use 10 mm thick one side UV protected polycarbonate.

    It comes 10 years limited warranty!
    It is cheaper than a glass.
    It is lightweight only 1700 g/m2!
    K-value is low 3.0 W/m2K.

    More information:

    http://mk.quicknet.se/221033/upload/dokument/multiclear-box-2-wall-09-07.pdf

    Gabson

  7. GabsonNo Gravatar says:

    If you have trouble to convert units. This site helps you:

    http://www.digitaldutch.com/unitconverter/

    Gabson

  8. my2cents0No Gravatar says:

    To post your project,CLICK SITE ADMIN,THEN CLICK,WRITE NEW POST.there was confusion on my part,but also new member,mostvideo had problem finding write button.my internet explower would not go to site admin.i had to change browser to GOOGLE CHROME,which works great.

  9. Matthew DriverNo Gravatar says:

    Hello,
    I’m in the process of building a beer collector in Canberra, Australia. We are located at Latitude 35 degrees South (compared to Hungary 46 deg North).
    Has anyone got any information or experience with installing the collector on the roof (cans running horizontally) and tilted back to an angle such that the collector is perpendicular to the Winter sun? I’m concerned that mounting it flat to a North wall will have the panel 32 degrees out from facing the sun at midday. I also don’t have an unshaded North wall that is suitable:-)

    I’m looking to use 150mm insulated duct to connect the collector to vents in the ceiling with the outflow in a different room to the inflow. I found a product called ‘IXL Easy Duct Thermal Transfer System’ that will provide the fan, duct and vents.

    Cheers,

    Matthew

    PS: This is now my favourite website! Keep up the good work and thanks for providing an English version.

  10. fater-52No Gravatar says:

    Matthew Driver:

    Hi. Matthew,

    Look at this site:
    http://www.sorkollektor.hu/?p=5043

    This heater was installed on the roof.

    Translating site here:
    http://www.webforditas.hu/index.php?show=textTab&lang=english

    regards, father-52 from Hungary

  11. Matthew DriverNo Gravatar says:

    Thanks fater-52 for your reply. The translation site you recommend worked much better than other I’ve tried.

    I have some more questions:-)

    I’m trying to source SOLKOTE HI/SORB-II paint in Australia, no luck yet. Does anyone have an advice on sourcing this paint? I’m happy to pay for freight from Europe if there are no other choices.

    What volume of paint do you suggest I purchase for painting a 2m sq collector (14×14 375mL cans).

    I’m confused as to whether it is better to paint the backing material behind the cans or use a reflective foil? For me it makes more sense to use a non-painted reflective foil to bounce the heat and light back at the cans. It hard to see from photos what other people are doing.

    Cheers,

    Matthew

  12. adminNo Gravatar says:

    It’s worth both, to paint all the the side of cans and behinde the cans you hav to use som reflective foil.

  13. Matthew DriverNo Gravatar says:

    Hi Admin,

    I understand the entire can should be painted.

    Can you clarify what you are saying regarding the reflect foil behind the cans. Do you paint the reflect foil or leave it shiny?

    Cheers,

    Matthew.

  14. adminNo Gravatar says:

    the reflectiv foil must leave shiny, to reflect all heat back to cans.
    So you have to use the reflective foil two reason:
    - reflect back the heat
    - protect the insulation of high heat

    reflective foil could be:
    - simple kitchen aluminium foil
    - thermo-mirror - from somekind of heating store, looks like this: http://www.hungary-tourist-guide.com/sorkollektor_hu/wp-content/sorkoli2_05.JPG

  15. Matthew DriverNo Gravatar says:

    Great, I thought it should be left reflective, I just can’t see it in any of the finished product photos.

    Product example link here:
    What about reflective foil paper (called Sarking) used under roof tiles? http://www.bradfordinsulation.com.au/Products/Commerical/Thermofoil-Foil-Sarking/Thermofoil-MD-Sarking.aspx

  16. GabsonNo Gravatar says:

    Hi Matthew Driver:

    I looked that Thermofoil then I red this:

    S E CT ION 5: F IR E F IGHT ING ME AS UR E S
    S pec ific Hazards : Not flammable – delaminates above 80°C.
    E xtinguis hing Media: Use extinguishing media (e.g. carbon dioxide, water, foam or dry chemical) and equipment as required if
    fire in surrounding materials .
    F ire F ighting P rocedures : If product is present in a fire, some smoke and toxic gasses may be evolved. Wear protective
    equipment including S elf Contained Breathing Apparatus (S CBA) when combating fire.
    Hazardous Decompos ition Produc ts : When heated above 120°C, the adhes ive may break down releasing chlorine and
    hydrogen chloride.

    Some members measured over 120 Celsius above in their collector at summer time.

    I may consider to use a simple aluminum foil.

    Regards, Gabson

  17. Matthew DriverNo Gravatar says:

    Gabson: Well spotted. And considering I’m 11 degrees closer to the Sun in Summer, I might just need a cover for my collector:-)

  18. Matthew DriverNo Gravatar says:

    I’m trying to work out what silicone product to buy to join the cans together.
    I have found that silicone designed for ‘Roof, Gutter & Metal’ is suitable for up to 150 deg Celsius. It comes in a range of colours including black. Is this the kind of product you would recommend for the job?
    Cheers, Matthew.

  19. fater-52No Gravatar says:

    Matthew Driver:
    YES! :-)

  20. GabsonNo Gravatar says:

    Hi Matthew Driver:

    I think that’s good. I shell try with a small amount to know open time, dry time and flexibility. You may get a good experience in a small one then you can glue a big one no surprise.

    Regards, Gabson.

  21. Matthew DriverNo Gravatar says:

    Ta. I’m glad your comments are positive.

    I’ve just glued 2 x 14 can columns with the stuff. I found zinc ceiling batons are a cheap and straight channel to hold my cans while drying. Also a rubber band can fit around both the can and channel (without adding screws or nails for each can position).

    Cheers,

    Matthew.

  22. Matthew DriverNo Gravatar says:

    I’m getting close to a possible source of SolKote in Australia. How many litres do you recommend I buy to paint a 2m2 collector?

  23. adminNo Gravatar says:

    0.5 L is enough for 2m2 kollektor

  24. Matthew DriverNo Gravatar says:

    Hi All,

    I’m a bit confused as to the current thinking regarding using fixed windmills between the cans.
    I currently have 200×375mL cans drilled top and bottom ready to join. I have tested joining two columns with no windmills.

    Should I;
    A: Use no windmills.
    B: Use windmills only in the middle columns.
    C: Use windmills on all columns.
    D: Some other option.

    Cheers,

    Matthew.

  25. fater-52No Gravatar says:

    Hi, Matthew,

    When I built my panel I was using windmills (fins) in every join.
    It caused a bigger flow-resistance in the tubes so I bought a stronger fan. It is more noisy than the previous one.
    Some people makes it without windmills and use a smaller fan. Those panels are working well. They told it.

    regards, fater-52 from Hungary

  26. Matthew DriverNo Gravatar says:

    fater-52: Hi fater-52, thanks for your reply. What sizes fan did you have before and what did you upgrade to? I’m fairly annal about power use:-) I’ve purchased a 40W fan that sits inline with 150mm duct. I’m unsure what Wattage fans others are using. I’m guessing 40W is probably less powerful than most??

  27. fater-52No Gravatar says:

    Matthew Driver: Originally I had an axial ventilator. Its pressure was only 45 Pascals, (165m3/hours, 120 mm dia) but my panel has very high flow-resistance. Its wattage was 18 Watts. It was a bathroom-fan.
    I replaced it with a squirrel wheel. (200 Pascals, 180 m3/hours, 100 mm dia). Its wattage is 40 Watts.
    If you have windmills in tubes pressure is a very important factor.
    Panel’s surface is 27 sqf (2,5 m2), 18 columns, its tallness is 11 cans and distributors. It might if you don’t put windmills in a smaller ventilator will be enough.
    Some people use big fans (100W-200W). In my opinion it is an unnecessary thing.

  28. amedo_polandNo Gravatar says:

    Hi,

    I would like to ask you is it important that the front glass, has to be convex ? Or it is just the aesthetical matter ?

  29. fater-52No Gravatar says:

    amedo_poland:
    Hi, amedo_poland,
    It isn’t important but the convex cover is more rigid than plain (flat).
    For example if you set up a plain (flat) sheet of paper it will sway but if you set up a convex sheet it will stayed up.

  30. amedo_polandNo Gravatar says:

    I wonder is it neccessary to cut out upper part of can, there is a “drinking hole” which can be a duct for air ??
    I am cutting lower part of cans with can opener, and it is working quite nice. Sometime opener makes a small hole outside can, but it is not a big problem.

  31. adminNo Gravatar says:

    the drinking hole is too small it has a great resistance for air flowing.
    In a standard 2m2 beercollector has about 150 pcs of beer cans, it menas
    that the air have to go throw 150 narrow holes. You’d better cut out both sides.

  32. marlon_ukNo Gravatar says:

    Hi,
    Is there any opinion about how much air space should be surrounding the tubes of cans? Should the tubes be near the back of the box, is there any advantage if there is space in front of the cans? Would additional aluminim in the box be useful? perhaps to hold heat?
    Regards Marlon_uk

  33. Matthew DriverNo Gravatar says:

    Hi All,

    I’m ready to buy a sheet of polycarbonate for my collector.
    The collector will be approx. 2.2m x 1m

    I have found a supplier that has 4.5mm and 6mm sheets in 2.4m x 1.2m.

    I’m looking to use extruded Aluminum for the frame. The product is called ‘150mm Sign Box section’. It has a 5.2mm slot around the edge that will fit the 4.5mm polycarbonate nicely.

    Question: Is 4.5mm polycarbonate mounted flat (not concave) going to be strong enough? What thicknesses are other people using?

    Cheers,

    Matthew.

  34. adminNo Gravatar says:

    If you see this picture: http://www.sorkollektor.hu/wp-content/fedesi-veszteseg.jpg

    You will some usefull informations. Its all about in hungarian. But I give you some help:

    üveg= glass
    Pc= policarbonat (flat cristal cleer)
    Pc üregkamrás = policarbonat struktured

    In the table of the last column shows the “thermal earnigs”. The bigger is better.

    To protect the “cover” not to be concave put some spacers, legs between the tubes with rubber ends.

  35. Matthew DriverNo Gravatar says:

    admin: Thanks Admin, Nice table. So now I’m considering 4 or 5mm glass…

    My collector will be mounted on a wall with a tilt of 30 degrees from the vertical (so that it faces directly at our winter sun).

    In this scenario is glass considered strong enough?
    (we don’t have snow and hail is rare does happen every few years)

    Were you referring to using legs with glass or PC?

    I could also go with double glazing, I’ve installed plenty of it in my windows but was concerned about adding weight to the collector:-)

    Cheers,

    Matthew.

  36. adminNo Gravatar says:

    I think 4-5mm glass is stong enough for enormous weather. Now I think 4-5mm glass is mutch better than PC. But dont use double glazing! Because the glass could crash because of very high temeperature difference. If you use double glazing at all, dont use metallic spacers between glass.

  37. adminNo Gravatar says:

    Oh, I forget: Legs need only for PC.

  38. marlon_ukNo Gravatar says:

    Hello on 13th June szbalogh on the Hungarian site put a picture of an interesting collector from Renewable Energy journal. Is there any information on how these would be used? and did they consider tubes of cans.

  39. adminNo Gravatar says:

    marlon_uk: Sorry, no datas, but as Is see this variation is much less effective than a regular beer can solar collectro.

  40. TraddyBearNo Gravatar says:

    Hi everybody,

    I’m new her and I found very interested all your comments and projects.
    I’m on my way to build my first solar collector. It’s 4 x 8 and will contained 272 pop can.

    I follow all your instructions here and on everysite wich many of you write in. I’ll start to build the divider and I have one question about it. On Hemmings Auto Blog, Marlon said : The hungarians use 4″ input and 5″ output.

    Can someone explain why, because I have difficulty to figure out what append with bigger or samller output. My thinking is :
    1- If the output is smaller, the air will be force to stay longer in the tube (that mean more pressure on tube either and it’s not bad to rise the temperature PV=nRT)…
    2- but the opposite (a bigger output) seams to be logical to. More room for the air and it’s stay longer on the tube .

    As you can see, I’m not good at physic. Can someone help me on that?

  41. adminNo Gravatar says:

    All the inlet and outlet has the same size, except your ventil has a small size you can add a biger outlet to reduce the resistenace of your system.

  42. TraddyBearNo Gravatar says:

    admin: Thank you admin for your answer. It’s make a lot of sense.
    I have another question. If I put a 185 cfm fan on my collector is it better to have a 6″ input and output?

  43. adminNo Gravatar says:

    it depends some (se below) thing, but bigger out and input always better choise than smaler.

    What kind of fan do you plan to use, axial or radial? We have a calculator, so if you give me some datas, i calculate you the correct fan size.
    datas nedded:

    - size of the complete collector
    - number of tubes
    - inlet and outlet diameter
    - it will be on the wall,or on the roof?
    - if on the roof, how long the ilnelt and outlet

  44. TraddyBearNo Gravatar says:

    admin:
    Thank you for your help:
    - size of the complete collector
    4 feet X 8 feet
    - number of tubes
    16 tubes (17 pop can each)
    - inlet and outlet diameter
    lets say 6 inches
    - it will be on the wall,or on the roof?
    on the roof
    - if on the roof, how long the ilnelt and outlet
    about 7 feet long each

  45. TraddyBearNo Gravatar says:

    And for the type of fan it’s like a Squirrel Cage Type

  46. TraddyBearNo Gravatar says:

    More questions : What about the shape of this inlet (and maybe outlet) to be connected on the divider (the one on this site)? Do you think it can help the flow to go evenly on each tube?
    http://www.homedepot.ca/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/CatalogSearchResultView?D=911537&Ntt=911537&catalogId=10051&langId=-16&storeId=10051&Dx=mode+matchallpartial&Ntx=mode+matchall&recN=258002&N=0&Ntk=P_PartNumber

  47. adminNo Gravatar says:

    Ok, so
    the preassure dropping of your system is 150 Pa and recommnend about 190CFM fan, so 185 CFM Squirrel Cage Type will perfect! (thats very good-cause it can do high Pa) ,
    In one of my collector has the same shape of inlet “transformer” because the fan utlet is square type :)

  48. adminNo Gravatar says:

    one more thing you have to use 6 inch tubes between the collector and the room,
    if the tubes smaler, than need a new calculation

  49. TraddyBearNo Gravatar says:

    admin: thank you so much for your help… I’ll follow your recommendation.
    I’ll try to post some pic of my collector soon. Maybe I’ll do a little vidéo like My2cents does and put the link here.
    Thank you again for your time by helping me.

    By the way, excuse my poor english, I’m french speaking :)

  50. gwest77No Gravatar says:

    Matthew Driver:
    Matthew, I don’t know if they ship to where you live but here is a link I have from some fellow solar builders on the solkote paint hope it helps you out.
    http://www.solec.org/

  51. TraddyBearNo Gravatar says:

    I haven’t make a video of my project. Instead, here’s my blog showing my project.

    http://chez-le-pere-michel.blogspot.com/2009/12/galarneau-et-moi-ou-mon-projet-de.html

    Special thank to my2cents for your inspirational video and to admin for your precious help.

  52. adminNo Gravatar says:

    Nice work TraddyBears, Congratulation! :wink:
    It’s very a good think to see such a succesful project like yours!

  53. TraddyBearNo Gravatar says:

    Hey! Hey!… Thank’s for posting a picture of my project. ;)

  54. gwest77No Gravatar says:

    TraddyBear
    That’s a great looking collector you built. Where in Canada are you located. I’m in the states, in Georgia and am working on a collector myself thanks to all the help from the Admin I’m getting. He makes it much easier :)

  55. TraddyBearNo Gravatar says:

    Hi gwest77

    I’m located here in Drumondville, Quebec, Canada
    I really too appreciate all the help I’ve got from Admin to acheived my project.

  56. gwest77No Gravatar says:

    Ok TraddyBear
    If you like to fish you are not far from some of the greatest salmon fishing in the world. Ever heard of the Salmon River in New York State ? From mid September to the end of October some record size fish run that river to spawn. I hope to have my collector finished in a couple of weeks. Can only work on it on weekends.
    Stay warm up that way. I have to say again, that is a fine looking collector.

  57. dougsNo Gravatar says:

    Hello all,
    This is my first comment though I have been reading and learning about these heaters for some time. I decided about a year ago to build one. I’m looking for some assistance with sizing the fan as I’ve tried a few and they seem too small. My heater is horizontal with 15cm inlet and outlet holes. There are 34 pop cans in each row and 22 rows. I have cut fins into the bottom of every third can.(was going to do every can, but it was taking too long). I have some pictures, but being new I haven’t figured out how to post them yet. Looking forward to your thoughts. Regards, Doug

  58. adminNo Gravatar says:

    Hi Doug,

    To calculate your fittable fun need more information:
    How long will be the toubing (both) from collectro to room?
    How many directon changing on the toubing (both)?
    The size of your collector’s absorber (popcantubes aand dividers together)

    (I’m activated your account so you can write a post and upload pictures too)

    Zoli

  59. dougsNo Gravatar says:

    Hi Zoli,
    Thanks for your fast reply. From the room to the collector is 40cm and from the collector to the room is 40cm. The pipe is straight out and straight in. I counted again and the length is 36 cans long with 22 rows. The cans measure 12cm long and 6.5cm in diameter. The whole collector is 463cm long and 158cm high. The dividers start at 15cm and taper to 5cm by 12cm deep.
    Regards, Doug
    IMG%5E_4869.jpgBBF6583DFDE88C4C!237BBF6583DFDE88C4C!238BBF6583DFDE88C4C!236

  60. dougsNo Gravatar says:

    Hi Zoli,
    Here are the pictures again as I don’t think I did it correctly.
    IMG_4869.jpg
    IMG_4871.jpg
    http://tmpj0w.bay.livefilestore.com/y1pxJ0RYyOZhEngmn-pmGqNC0mLFo6bfVP43EN8nnbLcC5CXZqfLvNUIBqUhPeksTi5kUmQhMxQVqOwfWZ88BZiTIR-cv_gXiq4/IMG_4872.jpg
    IMG_4873.jpg

  61. adminNo Gravatar says:

    Your collector resistance is extremly high! About 1000 Pa (10milibar).
    You should use doube (outlet -150mm) to reduce it. Then the resistance will be 200 Pa, thats better :)
    You have to examine the output curve of the ventil, it have to do 820 m3/h airflow at 200 Pa resistance.

  62. dougsNo Gravatar says:

    Thanks! I’ll try making the outlet bigger.

  63. gwest77No Gravatar says:

    TrradyBear
    Do you have a link I can reach you at concerning the way you built your dividers (manifolds) ?
    I would be thankful
    Greg

  64. TraddyBearNo Gravatar says:

    Hello Greg

    If you need to have more details about how I made the manifold you can e-mail me at traddybear@gmail.com.

    Do you have taked a look at my blog site ?:
    http://chez-le-pere-michel.blogspot.com/2009/12/galarneau-et-moi-ou-mon-projet-de.html

    I just read your previous comment about fishing… It’s sound great and gave me good ideas for the next autumn :))

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