Hi
This a brilliant web site, such a lot of information. Thanks to the Hungarians I am making a beer collector. I have made the divider which takes the air from the house and I now am trying to decide the design of the one which passes the warmed air into the house. On Greenhorns there is a diagram by Pipás’ which I cannot understand. What is hetszet and perteria? And is the inlet/outlet on this diagram on the same side as the shaped part or opposite. Thank you Marlon uk
Entries (RSS)
March 8th, 2009 at 6:20 am
He installed three radiators in the upper distributor box. Their type is called “PERFEKTA”. ( not “perteria”). They are under each other. So this device produces warmed air and warmed water.
Other unintelligible word is: “METSZET” ( not “hetszet” )= cutaway view.
Inlet/outlet is on the same side as the shaped part.
Best regards, father-52
March 9th, 2009 at 3:23 pm
Hi Marlon_UK,
What design have you used for your incoming divider?
From my understanding the incoming divider and outgoing divider can (and mostly) have the same design. There is fundamentally no reason not to.
The design on: http://www.hungary-tourist-guide.com/sorkollektor_hu/wp-content/doboz_ver5c.jpg
appears very elegant, the purpose is to create even distribution of air show each column of cans. A standard square box divider would send a more air up the central columns.
Cheers,
Matthew.
March 9th, 2009 at 6:52 pm
Matthew Hi
The input to the divider is inline, that is it is coming from the bottom of the box, rather than the back of the box. I could not therefore use the elegant and recommended design or the classical design. So I devised my own based loosely on the classical design. I made the base of the divider larger (5 ½”) so I could insert the input ( 4”) into base and the front instead of coming up at 90 degrees to the base I angled this to meet the normal sized top.
I want to make the tubes of cans as unobstructed as possible so I have put a 3” wide strip of aluminium inside the divider across the width about halfway up the height and directly above the intake. I hope this will stop the problem of the centre tubes getting most of the air. I hope I will not need fins – or if I do not many. Trying to tune a divider is not easy, it meant I had to bolt it together so I could take it apart. I have only tested it using a hair dryer to provide the air.
Sorry I don’t have a picture at the moment as I need to get a digital camera.
I intend to use the elegant solution for the top divider but I am puzzled why the input/output is on the flat side rather than the shaped side as it is in Greenhorns by Pipás’. I’m not sure if there is a fundemental reason for them to be the same as they are doing different jobs but this is new territory for me.
Cheers Marlon_uk
March 9th, 2009 at 7:08 pm
fater-52 Hi
Thank you, now I understand. I intend to use the elegant solution for the top divider but I am puzzled why the input/output is on the flat side rather than the shaped side as it is in Greenhorns by Pipás’
March 10th, 2009 at 6:07 am
marlon_uk: I think that this is because of the radiators in this manner, but I do not know it.
regards, fater-52
March 22nd, 2009 at 9:16 pm
Hi Marlon
My inlet/outlets will be the same as yours except on the sides as the cans are horizontal. I`ve decided to make aerodynamic manifolds using lycra material impregnated with fibreglass resin.
The shape will resemble a rigid horn-like flare and forms a very smooth transition from the circular duct to the narrow rectangle of the can manifold.
The airflow can be balanced by restricting the outlet end of each tube stack before they enter the outlet flare.
On a different note, you can buy a drill stand for under a tenner that takes a standard power drill, it make drilling neat holes a doddle. My drill press wouldn`t go slow enough so i had to invest in one. Screwfix had them on special offer not long ago.
All the best
March 26th, 2009 at 10:44 pm
Colin
I look forward to seeing your outlets. Sounds very space age.
I am using the no glue method for joining the cans into tubes so I no longer need to drill the cans, The no glue method involves cutting the bottoms off the cans with scissors and pushing the bottoms over the preceeding top. The bottom can is upside down to give a better seat in the divider. The tops of the cans are removed with a can opener, the top can has its centre removed with a knife. As Bill has pointed out if the silicon sealant gives way the cans stay put.
Cheerds Marlon
March 27th, 2009 at 8:40 pm
Hi Marlon
I tried cutting the cans but decided the holesaw method was a lot safer for my fingers
It seems the lycra/ polyester resin is quite a common method for building custom enclosures for car sub-bass speakers. Google should throw up a few results with how-to pictures. Its a bit messy and smelly but not difficult.
If it can handle the vibration from bass speakers it can manage this job.
I`m getting there slowly, over a thousand cans done so far and I had to ditch a lot of Carling beer cans as they contain steel..a magnet is a useful tool
All the best
April 30th, 2009 at 9:45 pm
Colin_uk: How will the lycra/polyester stand up to the heat? 1000 + cans is a lot of cans I can understand why you are using a holesaw. You are going to need a lot of glue. Yes I discarded Carling beer tubes.
Good luck
May 4th, 2009 at 8:34 pm
Hi Marlon
Cured polyester resin should handle 240F (115C) although i doubt there`s much chance of that happening with our winter sun.
The cans i have so far equate to about 630ft (192m) if laid end to end, i have quite a few bin bags full of them
June 6th, 2009 at 8:48 pm
Nice looking heater. This is a big unit. I am building a 250 can heater and am currently testing the air flow. I tried a 100 CFM fan and found that I do not achieve enough air flow. Your design looks like a double pass because the inlet and outlet are at the same end. I am thinking that with that design there is need for a larger fan. Yours is 188 CFM. Did you find this fan is required because of low air flow with the smaller fan also?
Thanks
June 7th, 2009 at 7:34 am
Hi,ianthorburn:
its quite a big collecor
250 can could be at least 3.2 m2 collector, its need about 200 CFM fan, and 0.5 ft diameter in and outlets to avoid air blast